The Flinders Ranges

Last week I had a few days off so I decided to head to the Flinders Ranges and do some walking. I'm taking this as evidence that I'm getting used to living out here - whilst I may previously have thought 7 hours a little too far to drive for a couple of days walking, I no longer do. The trip had an auspicious start - I must have been halfway to Broken Hill when the road got closed due to flooding but it was too late to turn around, I wouldn't have been able to make it back. Undeterred, I pushed on and was (un)fortunate enough to meet a lovely South Australian police man and discover that I too seem to have the Compton lead foot - I got a $220 fine (!!!!!) for going 12km (!!!!!!!) over the speed limit but lost no points as it was in SA. Needless to say, I've since overcome my previous aversion to cruise control :)

So I eventually arrived at Wilpena, which is a little town (although that doesn't really describe it well) within the Finders National Park. It has an info centre/general store, camping ground, unity/cabin kind of things and a restaurant & pub. It is lovely. The only people there are those visiting & walking in the area and the only bad thing that I could possibly say about it is that the wallabies are waaaaaaay to tame. They materialize as soon as you've cooked dinner (on the nifty stove I got with my first pay) and then try harder to get some than even Wes does!

On Friday I walked up to Tanderra Saddle which is just below St Mary's Peak, the highest point in the Flinders. The Adnyamathanha people who are the traditional owners of the land ask that you don't climb to the peak as it is central to their creation story (more of which below) however it is rather frustrating to see the peak so close and many European walkers with their poles and proper shoes walking on up whilst your enjoying a summit orange not quite at the summit. But anyway, the views from there were fantastic. The photo on the left is St Mary's Peak, in the middle is the view from the saddle into the pound and on the right is me, doing my best not to get sunburnt.

Wilpena Pound is a strange formation of mountains. Basically, the ridges form a U shape with a very narrow opening at one point only, hence the name pound (think impounded and you'll get the idea). Historically, it has been used for both sheep grazing and wheat growing and so has a really bizarre mix of vegetation and soil when you walk back across it. All in all, it was an awesome day.

The next morning I woke up to quite epic thunder and lightening and though I should probably have a chat to the rangers before I went walking. Good think I did as the peak I was planning to climb that day gets hit by lightening on a very regular basis and they strongly recommended that I didn't. Between that and the willingness of my tent to put up with thunderstorms (it doesn't complain about a little shower too much) I though that maybe I should just cut my losses and hit the road as I'm definitely going to head back when I next have time off to do some more walking. On the way out I did a quick walk up to Arkaroo Rock where there are some amazing cave paintings by the Adnyamathanha people that tell the creation story of Wilpena Pound.

Can you see the two black snakes in the bottom left hand? The story says that there was a gathering of some animals and a couple of humans for a ceremony in the pound. The snakes found out about it and planned to encircle them. The animals looked to see if the stars had risen so they could start and though they saw them but they had mistaken the snakes eyes for the stars (St Mary's Peak) and, to cut the story short, the snakes got them and the bodies of the snakes formed the pound.

There were a few wildflowers out which contrasted beautifully with the orange cliffs on a grey, misty, cold and wet morning (the flowering gums are for you Mum)

And the weird weather seemed to follow me back:

I learnt a few things about South Australians: they're very finicky about their fruit and veg and have tighter customs security than many airports; people driving don't nod and raise a lone finger in greeting like you almost have to here; and they are rather straight down the line about things - I liked these signs a lot:

It was a very good few days.